Love Lisbon

Alfalma, Lisbon

After Porto, we hopped on the train for the 2.5 hour journey to Lisbon. We booked into the Eden Apart Hotel, which was nothing to rave about in Mum’s postcard apart from the rooftop pool, which was made for cooling off in after a morning out at the sites. Infact, we spent too long lounging by the pool and realised we didn’t have enough time to see everything before flying back.  ‘We Hate Tourism’ Tours offered the solution with a trip with a twist to Belem, Sintra and Cascais. A guide who seemed like he hadn’t seen his pillow and was still feeling the effects of a substance he might have taken the night before (To be fair Lisbon has nightlife not to be missed) hurled us around what we didn’t have time to see and telling us tales of his love for Benfica FC, and a bit about the history of Portugal. It was fun and we saw a lot but I think a little less driving and a lot less about football wouldn’t have done the trip any harm.

Get lost in the winding streets of Alfalma, Lisbon

We Saw

Belem, the home of the famous custard tarts, buy from Pastéis de Belém, who have been baking these creamy little beauties for 175 years. Only 3 people know the secret recipe and they really were a notch and cent above others. We worked them off by trudging up the steep Alfalma hills back in Lisbon. Belem is also home to the art centre, CCB. A huge airy white building which houses modern art from Warhols to Lichtensteins. The art is displayed chronologically so the changing features of each movement are easily identified. For a fun ride to Belem, hop on the tiny tram 15 from the centre of Lisbon.

We Ate

Monkfish and pork with apple sauce made with locally sourced ingredients in Claras em Castelo. A tiny find right next to the Castle. The cook cooks everything on her own and also takes the orders. Although not the finest of dining, it was good home cooking with a Portugese flare and a nice alternative to the staple of chicken and chips we had been living off. Leave space for the home made almond tart with flat white peaches - a real treat.

The view of one of Portugal's secluded beaches

I’m going back for

Cascais. We stopped here on our We hate Tourism tour long enough for me to rip my clothes off and run in the water and flail about with the surfers who still do their thing even when the waves are pathetic. 

Decorations left over from Festas da Cidade

Festas da Cidade
An anual festival for a fortnight in June celebrating the birth of Saint Anthony. On the nights of 12th and 13th, the old streets are lit with lanterns to light up the streams of parades and music and people cook sardines in the streets.

Inside Pavilhão Chinês

I would avoid

Pavilhão Chinês
The décor looks like Hamley’s circa 1950s. The walls are blanketed with a substantial collection of lots of toys that should go back to the junk shop they were found in. At least the collections were a slight distraction from the cocktails, which tasted like melted ice lollies and turned my tongue blue. We left and found a DJ playing fun music in a square that overlooked the whole of Lisbon.